Uncultivated foods and the poor

Zaheerabad region of Medak District in the South Indian State of Andhra Pradesh is situated in the semi arid tract. Lands here are rainfed and highly degraded. Soil depths in most places are less than 6 inches. Red soils dominate the land. Consequently productivity is abysmally low. Farmers feel extremely lucky if an acre of land produces two quintals of sorghum. Erratic rainfall which has become the hallmark of the last decade leaves even this level of productivity with a question mark seriously threatening the food security of the poor who mainly own these type of lands.

It is in this context that one should look at the agriculture of the poor and the role of uncultivated food in their lives.

Agriculture of the poor is characterized by the celebration of bio-diversity on their lands. A minimum of 8 to 12 crops is grown by them at the same time and space on their lands. The symbiotic relationship between these crops can be seen in a wide range of issues: soil management, fertility management, internal cycle of inputs, pest control, labour management, diet management, risk insurance and many others.

Outside of such materialistic issues, farmers also look at their agro bio-diversity from a spiritual point of view. The diversity on their fields is their way of celebrating nature and establishing a communion with it. In this celebration they not only see the role of their cultivated diversity but also the overwhelming contribution of the enormous diversity of uncultivated foods.

A major reason for this spiritual celebration of diversity is the fact that uncultivated foods, over the millennia have been the source of life for the poor. It has made up a part of the quantum of the food they consume as well as the major source of nutrition for them.

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• Uncultivated foods and the poor

• Genetic security in native baskets

• Contract farming: A burden

• Fortune favours prepared farmers

• The crops of truth

Many types of green leaves are consumed as vegetables, and most of them are rich sources of calcium, iron, carotene, vitamin c riboflavin and folic acid. These greens are inexpensive sources of many nutrients, which are essential for growth, and maintenance of normal health. Consumption of such greens in adequate amounts especially by pregnant and nursing women and by children should also be encouraged. If greens are included in the diet in adequate amounts the need for fruits as an essential item (which is relatively costly) in diet is much reduced.

Green leafy vegetable requirement per day in grams is as follows:

Adult woman

125 gms

Adult man

100-125 gms

Pregnant & lactating women

150 gms

Adolescent girls

150 gms

Adolescent boys

100 gms

School children

75 gms

Pre-school children

50 gms

An average intake of about 50 gms of greens provides the required amount of vitamin-A to the child. Regular intake of greens in such amount will also help to build up a store of the vitamin-A in the body to provide for the lean seasons. An intake of about 100 gms of a mixture of greens daily by pregnant woman will ensure adequate storage of vitamin-A in the liver of infants at birth. Consumption of adequate amounts of greens, which are rich in folic acid, helps to correct Megaloblastic anemia. Iron deficiency anemia can be prevented by daily consumption of greens. Most of the greens are alkali-producing foods, fiber to the diet. Greens are particular rich in riboflavin. In general greens are rich sources of calcium, iron, magnesium etc. In recognition of all above said merits practically every health and nutrition agency advises people to grow greens in kitchen gardens, nutrition gardens, school gardens, Bio-intensive kitchen gardens etc.

However what are people’s practices, consumption patterns and food sources to access this most important component part of nutrition is an area that hardly attracts attention. Uncultivated Foods as the richest source of nutrition for the poor and as an unique practice of the poor to sustain their food security offer a wonderful opportunity for an exciting study.

The Deccan Development Society, a voluntary rural development organisation which has been working in Medak District since the last decade and half has been looking at the role of uncultivated foods specially in the lives of the poor.

Since 1989, the health workers of the society, have taken the lead in understanding this role of uncultivated foods in the lives of the poor. They have identified and classified over 80 uncultivated foods consisting of vegetables, greens and berries. A majority of these women are dalits and are at the lowest rung of the socio- economic ladder in their communities and work as farm labour to eke out a living. Therefore, the perspectives they bring are very significant from the point of view of gender and poverty.

The Deccan Development Society initiated another study during June 1999, which was exploratory in nature. To begin with the information regarding the uncultivated greens available during rainy season was documented in detail.

Uncultivated crops: Source of food for poor

Most of the rural people especially the poor consume uncultivated crops at least 50-80 days in a year. Earlier it was eaten for more number of days. Poor while working in their fields gather these greens and bring them to house. Those who don’t work go around the near by fields specially to gather these greens. Doggali Koora, Gangavayeli, Sannavayeli and Pundi are consumed throughout the year. Pundi and Doggali Koora are eaten more than 20 times in a year by some families. When monitorized each family consumes uncultivated crops worth Rs.500-1000 out of their total expenditure on vegetables is around Rs.1500 - Rs.2000 depending on family size. Some of the greens like Gunugu are sold as green fodder in near by towns. Uncultivated foods like Chennangi, Soyikoora, Adonda and Adivikakarakaya are also sold in towns, as they are preferred by people in towns, as they are good for health. Greens like Talaili and Kashapandla chettu are never uprooted, as their availability is less and have high medicinal value. Even the landlords ask the labour not to weed these two plants, which shows its importance in the lives of people and their concerns to protect them. Kasapandla chettu is called “Davakhalnaleni Mandu”. “Mydkur Narasamma” of Metlakunta lives only by selling these uncultivated greens in “Bidar” a near by town. She is very old and has fracture in hand cannot work as labour and hence slowly collects these foods and sells in the town.

Chemical agriculture - reduced availability of uncultivated crops

All the uncultivated greens are present mostly in Farm Yard Manure applied fields or in fields where chemical fertilizers are not applied. Very few greens are seen in chemical fertilizer applied fields as they die when they are young due to burning effect. Due to this only half of what use to be available previously is available now. In fertilizer applied fields greens are picked only after one or two irrigation which causes fresh leafs growth other wise it is not safe for health says ‘Narasamma of Kalbemal village’. In pesticide fields greens are not collected.

Utility of uncultivated crops during famines

Past history clearly indicates that uncultivated foods had a major share in the food consumed during famines and stress periods. In Zaheerabad region when there was famine 18 years ago people survived for 4 months by eating only these uncultivated greens specially Doggalikoora, Gangavayeli, Sannavayeli, Pundi, Gunugu Koora, Uttareni and Kapringa Pandlu. People ate more of curries made of these greens and negligible roti and rice. Pundi was even mixed in Jowar flour and rotis were made, as there was not enough flour. Poor people used to go for well digging and well restoration and collected these greens from near by sugarcane fields.

Uncultivated foods are tasty

They are tastier. ‘Santoshamma’ of Basanthpur village says that Doggalikoora is more nutritious than broiler egg is. Some time’s different leaves of uncultivated greens are cooked together. These foods do not need any species except a little bit of oil but still they are tastier according to Seshamma of Algole village. Sometimes leaves of these greens are cooked by adding little bit of onion. Generally they are mixed with gram dal, Redgram dal, lentil dal and greengram dal.

High medicinal value of uncultivated crops

Uncultivated crops play a key role in the health care of poor people. They utilise these greens in different forms like curry, leaf extracts and tablets etc. to cure common ailments like headache, swellings, wounds, scabies, improper digestion and major diseases like jaundice and diabetes.

Atteli koora when fed to postnatal mothers improves breast milk availability to infants. When lactating mothers eat pundi it is good for infants as it keeps their stomach free. Uncultivated plants like Kashapandla chettu is called “Davakhana leni Mandu” by people.

What is uncultivated food?

In the study, we have used word “uncultivated” in a more general way to denote either of the following three categories.

The greens from land that are not cultivated such as plant, creeper etc.
The greens that are not cultivated but are available as per partner crop in a cultivated field etc.
The greens that are available from cultivated plants, but the product was not the explicit objective of the cultivation.

Methodology

A preliminary study was done in 10 villages of Zaheerabad region. Information collection comprised mainly of observation and open ended discussions. Small group meetings with women were organized to understand the collective knowledge of women from the disadvantaged section. Detailed information was collected about uncultivated foods available during rainy season and same method will be followed for uncultivated foods during winter and summer season. DDS field staff and Sangam Karyakarthas facilitated this study whereas women members of the sangam were resource persons.

Classification of uncultivated foods

They are classified according to seasonal availability and their occurrence in irrigated and dry land conditions. Some of these foods are available in rainy and winter season and a few throughout the year. Leaves and flowers of some trees which are also consumed as foods are listed separately.

Classification of uncultivated foods according to seasonal availability

Rainy season (June to September)

No.

Local Name

Scientific Name

Doggali Koora

Amaranthus polygamus

Yennadri

Peddakasha pandla koora

Solanum nigrum

YelakachevulaKoora

Merremia emarginata

Gurmasi Koora

Tella pundi

Hibiscus cannabinus

Sannavayili Koora

Kapringa pandlu

Lycopersicum esculentum wild

Ponnaganti Koora

Alternanthera sessilis

Igda Koora

Cyanotis auxillaris

Teeta koyila Koora

Mucuna pruriens

Shyama Koora

Colocasia antiquoram

Tagirancha

Cassia tora

KodijutuKoora (rajgiriKoora)

Celoria cristata

Adivimentam Koora

Trigonella foenumgraecum

Pittya Thalakaya Koora

Adivi pulla Koora

Oxalis corniculata

Erra Pundi

Hibiscus cannabinus

Gangavayeli Koora

Portulaca oleracea

Atteli Koora

Gormadi Koora

Enicostema hyssopifolium

Chiekkudu Aaku Koora

Cyamopsis tetragonolaba

Budumakaya

Nalla Doggali (usike doggali)

Amaranthus sps.

TummiKoora

Leucas aspera

Chinna kasapandla koora

Solanum nigrum

Adivi soya Koora

Aurthum graveolus wild

Gunugu Koora

Celosia argentia

Uttareni Koora

Achyranthes aspera

Chennangi Aaku

Lagerstoemia parviflora

Talaili Koora

Mullu Doggali

Amaranthus spinosus

Sukkha benda

Abelmuscus ficulmias

Thota Koora

Amaranthus

Tella garjala Koora

Trianthema decandra

VomaKoora

Trachyspermum ammi

Creepers

No.

Local Name

Sceintific Name

Ataka mamidi Koora

Boerhavia diffusa

Chinna kakarakaya

Mormordica charantica

Polapatram

Gymnema sylvestre

Tella Bacchali

Spinach olceracea

Tondaku

Doosari Teega

Cocculus hirsutus

Anupa puvvu

Dolichos lablab

Nalla Bacchli

Basella sp.

Adivi kakarakaya

Mormordica charantica

Adivi chemmakaya

Canavalia gladiata

Bebber kaya

Vigna sinensis

Angi Bingi Aaku

Erra Bacchali

Basella rubra

Summer

No.

Local Name

Sceintific Name

Talaili Koora

Sannavayeli Koora

Gangavayeli Koora

Portulaca oleracea

Pundi Koora

Hibiscus cannabinus

Shyama Koora

Colocasia antiquoram

Pulla Koora

Oxalis corniculata

Gormadi Koora

Enicostema hyssopifolium

Ponaganti Koora

Alternanthera sessilis

Doggali Koora

Amaranthus polygamus

Nalla Doggali

Amaranthus sp.

Chilka Koora

Amaranthus virdis

Kodi juttu Koora

Celosia cristata

Teeta Koyala Koora

Mucuna pruriens

Chennangi Chettu

Lagerstoemia parviflora

List of trees whose leaves and flowers are cooked are available throughout year

No.

Local Name

Sceintific Name

Munuga Aaku

Moringa oleifera

Avisha Koora (Kaya and flowers)

Sesbania grandiflora

Tellarjam

Sada puvvu

Sesbania egyptica

Ryala puvvu

Cassia fistula

Tangedu puvvu

Cassia ariculata

Medi pandla Koora

Ficus racemosa

Classification according to occurrence in irrigated and rainfed conditions

Some uncultivated foods are available both in irrigated and dry lands and some only in any one of these situations. The classification is as follows:

Dry lands

No.

Local Name

Sceintific Name

Taduka dobbudu

Doggali Koora

Amaranthus polygamus

Ganagvayeli Koora

Portulaca oleracea

Adivi Mentham Koora

Trigonella foenum-graecum wild

Pappu Koora

Portulaca sps

Kusuma Koora

Carthamus tinctorius

Shanega Koora

Cicer arietinum

Yelukachevula Koora

Merremia emarginata

Kashapandla Koora

Solanum nigrum

Chinta Aaku

Tamarindus indicus

Igda Koora

Cyanotis auxillaris

Avakoora

Brassica nigra

Vulligadda Koora

Allium cepa

Talaili

Pundi

Hibiscus cannabinus

Yennadri

Tagirancha

Cassia tora

Thummi Koora

Leucas aspera

Mullu Doggali Koora

Amaranthus spinosus

Kodi juttu Koora

Celosia cristata

Chinna Kashapandlu

Solanum nigrum

Pedd Kashapandlu

Solanum nigrum

Adivi Mentham Koora

Trigonella foenum-graecum wild

Adivi Soyi Koora

Aurthum graveolus wild

Pittya thalakaya Koora

Gunugu Koora

Celosia argentia

Jonna Chenchali

Digera arvensis

Gurmash

Adivi Pulla Koora

Oxalis corniculata

Uttareni

Achyranthes aspera

Tella Pundi

Hibiscus cannabinus

Nalla Pundi

Hibiscus sps.

Chennangi Aaku

Lagerstoemia parviflora

Kapringa pandlu

Lycopersicum esculentum wild

Atteli Koora

Budumakaya

Cucumis sps

Tella garijala Koora

Trianthema decandra

Nalla Doggali

Amaranthus sps.

Sukkha Bhenda

Abelmusus ficulmias

Teeta Koyila Koora

Mucuna pruriens

Thota Koora

Amaranthus sps.

Irrigated lands

No.

Local Name

Sceintific Name

Yennadri

Tagirancha

Cassisa tora

Tummi Koora

Leucas aspera

Doggali Koora

Amaranthus polygamus

Kodijuttu Koora

Celosia cristata

Chinna kashapandlu

Solanum nigrum

Pedda Kashapandlu

Solanum nigurm

Yeluka chevula Koora

Merremia emarginata

Adivi Pulla Koora (puli chinta)

Oxalis corniculata

Tella pundi

Hibiscus cannabinus

Erra pundi

Hibiscus sps.

Chennangi

Lagerstoemia parviflora

Sannavayeli Koora

Gangavayeli Koora

Portulaca oleracea

Talaili Koora

Kapringa pandlu

Lycopersicum esculentum wild

Mullu Doggali

Amaranthus spinosus

Budumakaya

Cucumis sps.

Shyama Koora

Colocasia antiquoram

Nalla Doggali

Amaranthus sps.

Ponnaganti Koora

Alternanthera sessilis

Gormadi Koora

Enicostema hyssopifolium

Chikkudu Aaku Koora

Cyamopsis tetragonoloba

Thota Koora

Amaranthus sps.

Chiluka Koora

Amaranthus virdis

Shanega Koora

Cicer arietinum

Ava Koora

Brassica nigra

Adyam Koora

Vulli porka

Allium cepa

Elligadda porka

Allium sativum

Detailed information about each of the items of uncultivated foods collected on the following aspects.

Local name
Habitat
Season of availability
Method of collection
Edible part
Process of cooking
Consumption during famine or stress periods
Utility as fodder
Propagation
Rituals
Medicinal uses
Social relation
Economic value

These uncultivated greens are some times cooked in combination with other greens. This article is part of a series of pulications reproduced with the permission of the Deccan Development Society- Feedback:- Agriculture issues on India Together

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Uncultivated foods and the poor

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